Flowers Decorate Shawls

Recently I've been to a new exhibition “Shawls and Scarves” at the State Russian Museum, St. Petersburg. I did not expect that I would be so impressed by exhibits there. Well, I will tell and show you the most interesting things there.

Square scarf 'Reps' 19th century

 Throw, lace, 19th century

For the first time a unique assortment of ancient and modern Russian textiles is presented in State Russian museum, St. Petersburg. The shawls, throws and kerchiefs are shown as parts of old traditional costumes. In 18 century in the northern city of Kargopol gold embroidery on white thin linen shawls and scarves was developed. They were part of the elegant costume of northern women. Gold threads are attached to the fabric with silk threads, that have a clear pattern on sewing.

Female festive costumes, late 19th century

Fragment of embroidered shawl of a bride, silk, gold


Fragment of embroidered kerchief, silk

As a rule, the corner of a kerchief was decorated with large embroidery, a kerchief was fixed under the chin, leaving free corners on shoulders. In the years 1860-80, the most elegant kerchiefs with rich ornamentation appeared.

 The kerchief, gold threads, fabric, Kargopol, 19 century  

 Triangular kerchief, gold threads, fabric, Kargopol, 19 century

 The kerchief, gold threads, Kargopol, 19 century

Attending church, celebration, harvesting – all these required the proper type of feminine head covering.  In 18-19th centuries fashionable costume of a lady or merchant’s wife was incomplete without a flower-patterned shawl or kerchief.

 Merchant's wife in a festive costume, Toropets, 19th century

Fragment of embroidered headscarf, gold, silver threads, silk

Part of embroidered kerchief, silk

 Fragment of embroidered kerchief, silver threads, silk

Fragment of embroidered shawl, silver threads, silk

Makers of scarves and shawls imported new textile and technology to Russia in 18 century. The art of silk weaving from Middle East influenced the textile manufacturing in towns of Kolomna, Vladimir, Toropets, Bogoevlensk.  

  Embroidered bride's shawl, silk

Fragment of embroidered bride's throw, silk

At the beginning of the 19th century, a square scarf appeared, a pattern woven with gold and silver thread replaced the oriental patterns, and a border appeared at the edges. Manufactures in the cities of Zuev, Shchelkovo, Kolomna produced scarves with complex patterns. Brocade kerchiefs and shawls were part of the ceremonial women's attire in the merchants and among wealthy peasants.

Throw, silver threads, 19th century

Fragment of the throw

The evolution of this manufacture from the time of Catherine the Great to elegant modern shawls, throws and kerchiefs is due to the development of the textile industry in the country.

Next post I'll continue showing you beautiful things. 

Click to enlarge photos.